History of Nijrab

Tracing the Ancient Roots, Battles, and Legacy of a Proud Land

Historical Past of Nijrab District

There is no doubt that Nijrab has had a special place in the history books of historians even in ancient times. This is because the region, with its pleasant climate, is not only valuable for its natural beauty but also holds a special position in history due to its brave and patriotic people. In the ancient history books that have not been lost to the passage of time, there are accounts of the bravery of the people of Nijrab against Alexander the Great. Moreover, through non-professional excavations, many ancient artifacts and signs, which were secretly transferred out of the country by a number of traitors during the recent wars, date back over 3500 years. Among these artifacts are tombs (cemeteries) that were stolen during the years 1370 to 1373 from the former market of Nijrab District (Badakhshan). Recently, some valuable ancient artifacts have been discovered from the Ghachulan and Farakhshah valleys, which were taken by foreigners and hidden away. In another account, there is mention of the Lovers’ Mountain (Ashoka), which is likely the same as the ancient region of Kabul, where several times, with his army, he spent nights and passed through to Nuristan. However, leaving these earlier historical accounts aside, "Tuzk-e-Babri" or the "Memoirs of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur," the Mughal king who called himself the King of Kabul, holds a special place in understanding Kabul and especially Nijrab. It is important to note that when Babur talks about Kabul in his memoirs, he is not referring to the Kabul we know today; just as the kings of Kabul were not just the rulers of modern-day Kabul, but of a large land known as Kabulistan. Ferdowsi also referred to Kabul when he mentioned Kabulistan. In the Kabulistan of those days, Nijrab, which is very close to Kabul city, attracted the attention of kings and rulers due to its natural beauty, abundant fruits, and rich agricultural yields. The attraction of Nijrab remained strong until the time of Amir Habibullah Khan, the son of Amir Abdul Rahman Khan. Whether he was a prince or the ruler of Afghanistan, Amir Habibullah Khan would often visit Nijrab for sightseeing and hunting.

Five centuries ago, Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, in his memoirs, named 14 important districts around Kabul, including Nangarhar, Alishing, Alingar, Mandraw, Kunar, Norgal, Nijrab, Panjshir, Ghorband, Kohdaman, Logar, Ghazni, Zarmat, Bermal, and Bangash.

Babur gives a detailed account of Kabulistan, describing the way of life, social and economic conditions, nature, architectural traditions, agriculture, livestock, orchards, music, and city planning. Some of Babur’s observations may raise reactions among modern scholars, but if we look past such issues and credit Babur’s memoirs, it is clear that until the writing of Baburnama and even afterward, no writer has spoken as comprehensively about the cities of Kabulistan as he did.

Babur’s beautiful description of the Drah-e-Staf (the valley of Stalf), calling it the “paradise on earth,” and other areas such as the Sanjid valley in Qarabagh, Laghman, and Nijrab, is so captivating and close to reality that it inspires one to imagine life in Kabulistan 500 years ago. While several poets have praised the beauty of Kabul, it can be confidently said that no one before or after Babur has provided such a comprehensive account of the beautiful locations of Kabulistan. He writes: “The areas close to Kabul have both warm and cold climates. In just one day, you can ride on a horse and reach a place that has never seen snow, and in just one more hour, you can reach another area where the mountains are always covered with snow.” Babur’s references here are to Paghman and Nangarhar. At that time, fruit was abundant in Kabul and its surrounding areas, such as grapes, mulberries, figs, dates, apricots, almonds, pistachios, four nuts, pomegranates, apples, peaches, melons, nectarines, plums, and Senjed. However, the fruit that particularly fascinated Babur was the “Jalghoza” (pine nut) from Nijrab, which, at that time, could only be found in that region.

It is worth quoting what Babur himself wrote about Nijrab. He states: “One other town is Nijrab, located to the northeast of Kabul in the mountains. Behind it, there are the lands of the Kafirs, and Kafiristan is like a corner. It is a place abundant with grapes and fruit. In the winter, many birds fly there. In the mountains, there is much pine nut (Jalghoza), oak, and juniper. The pine tree, oak, and Jalghoza trees do not grow beyond that point, and these trees are from India. The people of the mountains use Jalghoza wood to light their lamps, which burn like candles and have a very pleasant fragrance.”

No one can ignore the natural beauty of Nijrab. If we think of nature as a hand, the five valleys of Nijrab could be the five fingers of this beautiful hand. Babur frequently praised the natural beauty of Nijrab in his book, admiring its valleys, mountains, streams, and sea. He was always attentive to ensuring that whatever beauty was worthy of praise, it was noted in his writing. Babur not only spoke of the botanical world in Nijrab but also of its fascinating animal life. He mentioned an animal called the “flying fox” that could jump from branch to branch. After hearing about it from his soldiers, Babur was determined to see this creature for himself. He writes: “In the mountains of Nijrab, there is a creature known as the flying fox. It is an animal similar to the larger flying squirrels. Between its hands and legs, there is a membrane like that of a moth’s wings. It can jump from one tree to another, and I have seen it leap from one tree to another, spreading its wings like a bird. It lands gently, and it is harmless.”

From Babur’s memoirs, it is clear that the mountains of Nijrab were full of remarkable animals and birds. The presence of these creatures was one of the reasons powerful figures like Babur and other kings, including Amir Habibullah Khan, were drawn to Nijrab for hunting. Unfortunately, due to the negligence of the authorities, many of these remarkable animals and birds have disappeared. Even the famous leopard of Nijrab, which used to descend from the mountains to the villages during the winters and cause fear among the villagers, has either migrated from the mountains or been destroyed by those who fail to understand the importance of such animals in maintaining the natural beauty of the region.

In other images, Babur depicts the people of Nijrab, Drah-e-Noor, and Kafiristan as warriors and brave men who fought fiercely against foreign forces until their last breath. He sent one of his experienced generals to subdue the people of the “Ghin village” in Nijrab, but the general could not achieve a decisive victory. Babur speaks of the bravery of the people of “Ghin village” and their leader, “Hussain Khan Ghini,” who fought with the strength of a lion, not allowing his land to fall into the hands of Babur’s forces.

However, bravery and valor alone do not encompass all the virtues of a person. To be a good human, one must also display other qualities such as generosity, kindness, and coexistence. The people of Nijrab are known for their generosity, kindness, and humanity, and it is rare to find a foreigner who does not mention these admirable qualities of the people of Nijrab. This generosity and bravery were particularly evident in the history during the first and third Anglo-Afghan wars, as well as during the time when Amir Habibullah Khan Kalakani sought refuge in Nijrab after his conflict with Nader Shah.

Nijrab During the First Britain-Afghan War

The First Britain-Afghan War was not a battle between two powers, kings, or rulers. In fact, it was a people’s revolution against British colonialism and social inequalities. It was, at the same time, the first people’s war where the Afghan people, not figures like nobles, kings, or princes, were the leaders. However, like every people’s revolution, there were opportunists who took advantage of the people’s uprising for their own benefit. In the history of both the East and West, there are notable examples of people’s uprisings and individual profiteering—such as the French Revolution, which was sparked by the cries of the oppressed and eventually silenced by the machinations of a few individuals.

On the 7th of August, 1840, when the British placed Shah Shuja on the throne in Kabul, the people of Kabul and its surrounding areas, including Nijrab, were dissatisfied with this imposition. This discontent turned into action two years after the British occupation of Afghanistan, and the people of Nijrab were among the first to join their Kabul brothers and sisters in the fight to free Afghanistan from colonial rule. Mohan Lal, the British spy and author of the book “Amir Dost Muhammad Khan,” who was also a loyal servant of Alexander Burnes, the British ambassador in Kabul, described the role of the people of Nijrab in the killing of the British ambassador in his book. He mentions two heroes: Mir Masjidi Khan Khostani and Sultan Muhammad Khan Nijrabi, who led the people of the mountains and Nijrab in an assault on the British Embassy, located near the Kabul square. They decapitated Alexander Burnes and hoisted his head on a spear. The renowned historian Mir Ghulam Mohammad Ghobar also writes that Mir Masjidi Khan, with the help of Sultan Muhammad Khan, raised the flag of jihad against the British in Nijrab and gathered many people from the area to break the lines of British colonialism. This national uprising, one of the most significant popular uprisings against colonialism, is a proud example in human history of a nation that was able to stand against the mightiest colonial power with bare hands and defeat it. A defeat so significant that from an army of 18,000 undefeated British soldiers, only one person, named “Dr. Bryden,” half-dead, made it to Jalalabad to rejoin another British army.

Sadly, after the British were able to quell the popular movement by deposing one Amir and installing another, they poisoned two national heroes of Afghanistan—Sultan Muhammad Khan Nijrabi and Mir Masjidi Khan Khostani—through their spies, ensuring that no memory remained of these two heroes.

Nijrab During the Third Britain-Afghan War

During the Third Britain-Afghan War, the people of Nijrab actively participated, sacrificing many lives in the pursuit of freedom and defending their homeland. Their heroism contributed to the glorious pages of history. Fortunately, the pro-independence government of Amanullah Khan did not overlook the bravery of the people of Nijrab. In historical monuments, especially in the Minaret of Pul Mahmood Khan, the names of these brave men were engraved.

The courage and selflessness of the people of Nijrab are well reflected in the book “Afghanistan” by the famous American author Louis Dupree.

Nijrab During and After the Era of Nader Shah

Sadly, after Nader Shah came to power, there was no attention given to the development of Nijrab. This beautiful area, with its kind and generous people, was neglected. Even during the reign of Zahir Shah, the government continued this policy of neglect. During this time, there was very little progress in Nijrab—aside from the existence of one or two secondary schools and a couple of elementary schools. The light of knowledge, which was so close to Kabul, did not shine in Nijrab. Not only were no significant steps taken to improve the situation in Nijrab, but government officials, by filling positions such as governor and district chief, harassed and oppressed the people. Since seeking justice had become a forgotten practice, these officials continued to line their pockets at the expense of the powerless people. In fact, in order to become a governor, an individual had to pay a large bribe to obtain the position, and once appointed, they would exploit the people of Nijrab to recover their money.

It was only during the time of the late Mohammad Daoud Khan that there was a brief focus on the development of education. However, other infrastructure projects, such as constructing a road to connect Nijrab to Kabul, were never realized. The people of Nijrab continued to rely on a dangerous and very long road built by the people themselves until the decade before a proper road was constructed.

During the time of Zahir Shah and Daoud Khan, people from Nijrab traveled to Kabul through Golbahar. At that time, only two old service vehicles existed, which often broke down halfway, forcing passengers to walk the rest of the way. There was no other means of transport for these people. Not only was the service full inside, but the poor people of Nijrab had no choice but to ride on the roof of the vehicle, traveling with their goods and livestock. This journey sometimes took more than seven hours. This self-made road continued to improve day by day thanks to the efforts of the people of Nijrab. Even until just last year, work on its repair and maintenance continued, with the people taking important steps to improve the situation of this road, despite the lack of government support.

The government had not even taken steps to establish a position that would be worthy of a government. Government offices in Nijrab were made of the same materials available in the region, and it was difficult to distinguish between a modest house and a government office